Monday, June 18, 2012

Update from Paris


Monday, June 18 – on the train home from Bayeux

Thursday, June 14 (Edinburgh to Paris)
A relaxed start to the morning. We were able to sleep a little later and have a nice breakfast before catching a taxi to the airport, on our way to Paris. We had to do a little juggling of luggage because the airline we are flying (Easyjet) has a VERY strict policy of one piece of carry-on baggage per person (including purse, camera, etc.). We tried to cram extra carry-on items into single bags. Unfortunately Starla's carry-on was too big and they forced her to check it at a cost of $60.

We arrived in Paris late afternoon and had a driver waiting for us. It took just under an hour to drive from Paris Charles de Gaulle airport to the apartment we are renting in the center of Paris. We immediately felt the difference of being in a foreign country. In England and Scotland we didn't feel too out of place, since everyone spoke English and all the signs were in English. Now suddenly we can't read the signs and everyone around us is speaking in French.

Our apartment is modest by American standards, but very luxurious for the heart of Paris. We have three bedrooms, two bathrooms and a kitchen.

The kids were exhausted from our days of traveling, so they all stayed in the apartment as Laura and I went out to get groceries. We had thought about going to a restaurant for dinner but we ended up getting take-out Chinese to bring back to the apartment.

Friday, June 15 (Paris)
A walking tour through the center of Paris today. We started at the Conciergerie. After looking around briefly we realized there wasn't much to see, so we moved on to Saint-Chapelle. There was a line to get in, so we decided to stop and get some coffee at a cafe. Unforunately the line got a lot longer while we were in the cafe, so we ended up waiting almost an hour to get in. It was well worth the wait – although it is fairly small, this church has the most amazing stained glass windows that we've ever seen. Highly recommended!

From there we went on to Notre Dame. The crowds there were huge but moved quickly. Amazing architecture. A mass was taking place as we walked through – not sure if that always happens, but there were several hundred people taking part, and they were oblivious to the hundreds of people walking around the outside perimeter.

Next we crossed to Ile-Saint-Louis where we stopped at Berthillon for ice cream. They are world-famous for their delicious ice cream made fresh at the store every day. Just around the corner we stopped for a quick lunch of crepes.

Much of the rest of the day was just walking and seeing the sites of the Latin Quarter (5th district) and St. Germain (6th district). We stopped at Lauderee for treats, Cafe Flore for apertifs, and Cafe Procope for dinner. Finally after that a long walk home – about 12 miles of walking in all.

Saturday, June 16 (Paris)
Today begins at the Louvre. If you've never been here its hard to describe how truly big it is. The museum is housed in a former palace of the king. We were there at the opening and went straight to see the Mona Lisa. It was a good plan – usually the crowd around that painting is huge, but there weren't too many people here yet and we had a good unobstructed view. We had a little over two hours to see some paintings, but then had to leave. We've been told it could take three full days to really see all that there is in this musuem, and that seems about right.

After stopping for lunch we began another long walking tour. This one took us through Jardin de Tuileries (a large beautiful park), a stop for some gourmet chocolate, then down the Champs de Elysees (with a few stops along the way), to the Arc de Triomphe. We climbed the stairs to the top of the Arc and enjoyed the amazing view of the city.

Next we walked toward the river, where we boarded a dinner boat cruise that took us the length of the city and back.

Finally we ended up at the Eiffel Tower. We had arranged a tour ahead of time that allowed us to skip the 4-HOUR line of people waiting to buy a ticket to go up. Our guide gave us lots of amazing facts as we went along. We stopped at the first and second levels, then finally made the trip to the top. The sun was just setting a little after 10:00 PM and we were able to still see the city before it got dark. After we came down (at 11:00 PM) they turned on the “sparkling” lights for five minutes – what an amazing sight!

Sunday, June 17 (Paris)
This morning started early with a trip to one of the best-known flea markets in Paris. After stopping for crepes and cofee we browsed the long streets of vendors selling beautiful antiques. Laura was desperately wanting to buy paintings and china she found, but our luggage won't allow it. She did find a beautiful tapestry that she may use as a rug.

We had avoided the Metro until now, after our firsr attempt at it was frustrating and confusing. However, now we had to get a long distance across town, and there were no taxis in sight. After we figured out the ticket machine we discovered it wasn't that hard to use, so we took the Metro across town to Montmarte, where we met a group tour of the city.

It turned out that the group tour was a dud – the tour guide spent long stretches rambling on about the detailed lives of painters who had lived in the city. So, after awhlie of that we split off and walked the streets of the town on our own. Although this area is now technically still inside the city of Paris it has the feel of a small town on the hillside. We enjoyed a cafe lunch on the street here before taking the Metro to our next destination – a bike tour.

We started at the bike tour office, which is near where we are staying, but the tour took us to the south part of the city – districts 13 and 14, which are outside the areas that tourists normally see. Very interesting, and very different from the much busier and noisier center of the city.

After the bike tour we picked up some groceries (we are making our own breakfast at home each morning before leaving for the day), then walked back over to Ile-Saint-Louis to have more of that delicious Berthillon ice cream before going to dinner.

Monday, June 18 (Bayeux)
Got up early this morning to catch a train to Bayeux. We arrived shortly after 11:00 and had a little time to stroll around the town. There is a HUGE medeival cathedral in town (Notre Dame de Bayeux).

We met our tour guide at 1:00 and took a 4-hour drive around the Normandy beaches at the site of the D-Day landings. I didn't realize there are still many German bunkers left in place, including some with the guns still in place. Our guide gave us some great background to the whole operation. We visited the American cemetary at Omaha Beach where over 7,000 American soldiers are buried. We found one cross with the name “Pvt James Ryan” who died on D-Day (June 6, 1944) and we wondered if we had found one of the brothers from the story in “Saving Private Ryan”. However, our tour guide informed us that the actual name of the family the movie was based on was Neeland, not Ryan.

Now we're on the 3-hour train ride back to Paris. We leave early in the morning taking the fast train to Marseille to continue our journey to the south....

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